|
Tools:
Interdynamics Retrofit kit ($30)
1 can of sealant $4
Thermometer $10
Manifold gauges $100 (optional)
Kit includes:
· (1)
high-side fitting adapter
· (1) low-side fitting adapter
· (1) can of ester oil (specially made to facilitate use
of RFC134a in R-12 systems)
· (2) 1-pound cans of RFC134a refrigerant
· (1) RFC filler hose and can adapter
· (1) label to indicate that the car now uses RFC134a
|
 |
Out of desperation
(and heat prostration), I looked around for DIY way to fix AC. First
of all, there was no R-12 Freon in the store. Well, that's not exactly
true. There might've been some in the store, but ONLY by the large can,
and ONLY to certified air conditioning service businesses, and for ONLY
around $90/lb (need 2.5lb). But there was plenty of R-134a for about
$4 per can. So I chose to convert my AC to R134a systems using Interdynamic
RETROFIT kit. It costs about $30 and had everything you need to
convert the system. I did mine conversion without replacing any components
in my AC system, just a kit itself. Some people say that you should
replace O-ring and accumulator/drye, but I DID NOT.
"It's a good idea to replace your O-ring
if you have the system apart. It's cheap insurance against leaks.
Contrary to popular belief, changing the O-ring is not required when
converting to R134a if you have a good, non-leaking R12 system. There's
no such thing as "r134a compatible" O-rings."
"When
switching from R12 to R134a you need to change the accumulator/dryer
anyway because the desiccant used to absorb moisture in an R12 system
isn't compatible with R134a."
I did mine conversion
in February 2002 and so far so good.
Some R134 cons:
R134 is about
10% less efficient than R12 when used in systems designed for R12
during stop and go traffic.
R134a is more likely to leak through hoses due to its different molecular
composition (smaller). Even if it does leak, it's a slow leak, you
can replace a lot of R134a for the price of new hoses.
Free advice (you
get what you pay for): if your system works now, stick with R12. If
it doesn't, make the low budget switch to R134a.
SOME SYSTEMS
CONVERT BETTER THAN OTHERS
There are other
alternatives to R12. R406
and R12
Alternative. But who
knows whether these other alternatives will last.
Interdynamic
RETROFIT kit Instructions
Any
remaining R-12 Refrigerant in AC system must be removed without venting
by a certifies mechanics.
You should only add up to 85% of R12 capacity.
1. Locate
Low Side (blue) and High
Side (red) Service Port.
2. Remove dust caps from AC service ports, and clean ports.
2a. Screw the R134a Adapters (from kit) that are coated
with self-locking adhesive on each of the Serive Ports.
Low side adapter
fits only blue cap, and high red cap. Place
low side adapter on low service valve,
and high on high service port.
3. Start
engine and turn AC to maximum cool. (Do not do so in closed garage)
4. Turn can tap valve handle in counter clockwise direction until
it stops. Screw can tap vale on threaded valve on top of R134a can.
Tread blue house on can top valve.
5. Locate low site (blue) service port on AC system. Connect
quick connect house fitting on low side. Pull sleeve back, place over
a service port, push sleeve forward, make sure couple fits tightly.
CHARGE ONLY OVER LOW SIDE. Note: quick connect house fitting
will only fit low side.
6. Shale can vigorously.
7. Turn valve handle in clockwise direction allowing piercing
needle to puncture R134a can.
At this time your AC should start blowing cold air.
note: Because system is empty, charge system with first 2 cans
in upside down position to activate the system. Then complete oil charge
and after that add any additional R134a
It is going to take a while for all of refrigerant to get into a system.
Let it sit for few minutes (2-5 minutes).
8. Once can has been emptied into AC system, close valve by turning
valve handle in clockwise position until stopped. Remove quick connect
fitting by pulling sleeve back.
9. Place probe-type thermometer in your air duct. If the temp
stops dropping or starts increasing, you're fully charged. If not
go back to step 5. Make sure that you add R134a oil after
second can.
Please look at the table on bottom of this page
to see maximum capacity of you AC system.
10. If you AC is leaking R134a at this time you should add sealant,
or any other additives.
11. If there is material remaining in can, keep closed valve
in place.
12. Screw dust caps on service ports.
13. Place
Retrofit Label to visible surface, as required by EPA.
|
If using
manifold gauges for step 9.
|
 |
You'll begin to get steady pressures on the manifold gauges. The target
pressures vary depending on ambient temps, but the range is 24-30 on
the low side and 130-190 on the high side. The target pressures will
be higher (definitely could be outside the aforementioned range) if
it's hot out, lower if it's cool . To get the 38 degree outlet temps
I got, I charged to 30 psi on the low side and 160 on the high side
with 60 degree ambient temps. Keep adding refrigerant until the pressures
come into range. Also keep an eye on the outlet temp via a probe-type
thermometer. Use the "NORM" setting on the a/c, high fan and
check the temp at the at the center air duct. If the temp stops dropping
or starts increasing, you're fully charged. Remember, the rule of thumb
is about 80-85% of the R12 capacity of 3.25 lbs (check the label on
the evaporator core housing to be sure).
Read and follow all instruction
on back for each product.
"FAQ's" (Frequently
Asked Questions) about Retrofit
from Interdynamics,
Inc website
I heard that if you have
to retrofit a vehicle from R-12 to R-134a you should change all of the
components in the system. Why is it that with the Interdynamics Retrofit
Kit you don't have to change or alter any internal components?
In the beginning, when retrofitting
vehicle air conditioning systems first came up, it was assumed that
major components of the system designed for use with R-12 would have
to be changed to R-134a compatible components. As more research was
done, and as vehicles were actually retrofitted, we learned more and
more about the process, namely that much less had to be done than was
originally thought.
If an R-12 system is functioning
properly, components do not have to be changed, and the R-12 refrigerant
can be replaced with R-134a without opening up the system. If, however,
the system is not functioning and repairs must be made, then the defective
parts should be replaced with R-134a compatible parts.
Hoses and O-Rings (if not
damaged) do not need to be replaced, because the mineral oil used
in the R-12 system is absorbed by the rubber, and actually forms a
protective barrier, protecting it from the R-134a.
What makes the Interdynamics
Retrofit method different from other retrofit methods?
The Interdynamics' Retrofit
method is a "CLOSED SYSTEM" retrofit, in which the air conditioning
system is NOT OPENED and INTERNAL COMPONENT PARTS are NOT REPLACED.
Other methods require OPENING the a/c system to replace O-Rings and
other components, which would also require flushing the system, since
contaminants were allowed to enter the opened system. We avoid this
by keeping the A/C System CLOSED.
Can I use the Interdynamics
Retrofit Kit if I am opening the system and replacing components?
Yes, but with a couple of changes.
First, if you are replacing any components of your AC system, be sure
that the replacement items are compatible with R-134a. Also check and
see if flushing is recommended after installing the new component. In
addition, as long as the system is open, this is a good time to remove
the any remaining mineral oil.
When the system is open,
you should use a POURABLE Ester Oil instead of the aerosol Oil Charge
that comes with many of our kits. Pour it into the system and then,
after closing the system, crank the compressor 25 times by hand to
distribute the new lubricant, and then charge with R-134a to 80 to
85% of the original R-12 Capacity.
When replacing the compressor,
make sure that the new compressor is compatible with R-134a, and use
whatever oil the compressor recommends (PAG or Ester) in order to
maintain the compressor warranty.
Does this Interdynamics
Retrofit Kit actually work?
Yes! Since 1997, we've sold
over ten million Interdynamics retrofit kits and components, many by
the top automotive accounts in the industry, with virtually NO USER
COMPLAINTS.
Where did the Interdynamics
Retrofit method come from?
The Interdynamics retrofit
method is described by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
in a July 1996 document titled: "KEEPING YOUR CUSTOMER'S CAR COOL:
SOME GUIDANCE IN RETROFITTING A/C SYSTEMS TO R-134A". The EPA refers
to a "Least-Cost Aftermarket Retrofit" in which the system is not
opened and there are no major component changes.
Why do some of the adapters
appear to different than the ones shown on the package?
Because of the large quantity
of adapters we use, Interdynamics has several suppliers for this component,
and the appearance of the adapter may be different. Some are shorter,
some are longer, some are aluminum and some are brass. All adapters
meet the SAE Specifications.
When installing the service
port adapters, do I have to remove the valve core from the original
service port?
It depends on the adapters
that are included with the kit. Because we get adapters from several
different sources, some require removal of the original valve core and
some do not. You should refer to the instructions that come with your
retrofit kit, reading them COMPLETELY before retrofitting, because the
instructions are matched to the exact adapters that are included
with the kit.
To determine of the original
valve core needs to be removed, take the adapter (when it is not attached
to the service port) and press down on the valve core pin in the adapter.
If it stays down, and moves back and forth when you shake the adapter,
then it is an extender, which activates the valve core in the original
service port, which should not be removed. If you press down on the
valve core pin in the adapter and it springs back up, and it does
not move back and forth when you shake the adapter, then it is an
actual valve that replaces the valve core in the original service
port, and that original valve core must be removed.
Is there an easy way to
identify the low side adapter?
There is only 1 size low side
adapter for ALL Vehicles. You can identify it in a kit, because it is
the only one that will fit onto the Quick Connect on the end of the
charging hose.
How well does R-134a work
in an R-12 system?
On most vehicles the air coming
out the vent will be the same. On some vehicles the R-134a air will
be a couple of degrees colder. On some other vehicles (rear wheel drive
domestic vehicles) the duct temperature may be 2-4 degrees warmer. This
is considered an insignificant amount, and based on our experience selling
over 10 million of retrofit kits since 1997, users are extremely satisfied
with the results.
Why does Interdynamics
use Ester Oil instead of PAG Oil?
While both lubricants are
used with R-134a, Ester is believed to be better for Retrofit systems
because they are much less hygroscopic, which means that they don't
absorb as much water from the atmosphere as PAG Oils do. This moisture
can create problems in a vehicle's A/C system. Ester is also a truly
Universal lubricant which has a Single Viscosity. PAG Oils come in
a variety of viscosities which must be matched to the vehicle. GM
vehicles use a high viscosity (150) PAG Oil, and non-GM vehicles use
a low viscosity (46) PAG Oil. You cannot use a 100 viscosity PAG Oil
as a "1 size fits all" universal lubricant. Ester Oil, however, is
truly universal and will lubricate properly regardless of viscosity.
What about the old oil
left in the system? Don't you have to drain that?
No. The mineral oil left behind
will not mix with the R-134a refrigerant. That is why we add Ester Oil,
because it will mix with R-134a and lubricate the system components.
The mineral oil just finds a low place in the system, where it stays,
until it is removed at some later date during future maintenance or
repair. The mineral oil does no good, but it does no harm. It's just
there.
How much R-134a do you
use to fill a system?
You fill a system with 80-85%
of the original R-12 Volume. Since there are 3 oz. of R-134a used as
a propellant in the Oil provided in the kit, three 12 oz. cans of R-134a
should be sufficient. The amount of R-12 Refrigerant in the system can
be found in the service manual or on a service plate located in the
engine compartment of the vehicle.
How do you actually do
the retrofit with the Interdynamics kit?
There
are 5 steps:
| 1.
|
EVACUATE the R-12, if
there is any left in the system. This must be done without venting
(releasing the gas into the atmosphere) by a certified mechanic
using approved R-12 Recovery equipment. Many installers will do
this without charge, because the R-12 they recover from your system
is valuable. |
|
2. |
Install the ADAPTERS
onto the Service Ports (High Side & Low Side). |
|
3 & 4. |
Add 1 can of R-134a
refrigerant first, so the compressor is not running “dry”.
Add the ESTER OIL that is included with the kit. Then add the
remaining R-134a REFRIGERANT, to a total of 80-85% of the original
R-12 capacity. |
|
5. |
Fill out and affix the
LABEL to the engine. |
Are there any restrictions
on the sale of R-134a Refrigerant?
At the present time, there
are NO FEDERAL RESTRICTIONS on the sale of R-134a Refrigerant, because
it is not an Ozone Depleting Substance or "CFC". The sale of
R-134a is restricted in the state of Wisconsin, where it can
only be sold to certified technicians.
Don't you have to flush
the system?
Since a functioning system
is not "opened" with the Interdynamics Retrofit Kit, flushing is not
necessary.
Doesn't R-134a need higher
pressure to work? Won't that damage my R-12 system?
R-134a systems are designed
to run at higher pressure than an R-12 system, which is why we use
less R-134a than the amount of R-12 in the system (80-85%). This keeps
the pressure at the appropriate level.
Can I add R-134a directly
to my R-12 system?
No. Federal Law prohibits “topping
off” an R-12 system with a different refrigerant. All R-12 refrigerant
must be properly evacuated before any other type of refrigerant can
be added.
What direction should the
can be when charging - rightside up or upside down?
Plain refrigerant should be
installed as a gas, with the can rightside up. If it's a can with refrigerant
and oil or other additives, shake the can and alternate directions (rightside
up then upside down, then rightside up, etc.) during installation to
prevent the other chemicals from settling to the bottom. Finish with
the can upside down.
How long should it take
to put a can of refrigerant into an air conditioning system?
It shouldn’t take more
than a minute.
What about some of these
"drop-in" Replacement Refrigerants for R-12 that I have heard about?
Are they any good?
The EPA points out that
only R-134a has been tested and approved by automakers for use in
their vehicles, and it is also the only Replacement Refrigerant for
R-12 that is widely available.
EPA adds that there is NO
SUCH THING AS A "DROP-IN", since refrigerants CANNOT BE MIXED in an
A/C System. In addition, ANY REPLACEMENT REFRIGERANT MUST HAVE:
- Unique Fittings for the
Service Ports
- Unique Charging Devices
- Unique Label
In addition, any replacement
refrigerant containing R-22 requires replacing system hoses
with Barrier Hoses.
It should also be noted
that some of the more talked about Replacement Refrigerants are made
from up to 80% R-134a.
NISSAN
Green=134a
Blue=R-12
=Could Be Either 134a or R-12
| YEAR |
MODEL |
CHARGE
LEVEL |
|
1998-99
|
Frontier
|
24oz
|
|
1997-99
|
Pathfinder
|
24oz
|
|
1995-99
|
240SX
|
24oz
|
| 1995-99 |
Maxima,
200SX, Sentra
|
24oz
|
| 1995-99 |
Quest
|
|
|
|
Front
AC Only
|
32oz
|
|
|
Front
and Rear AC |
52oz
|
|
1993-99
|
Altima
|
28oz
|
|
1995-96
|
300ZX
|
21oz
|
|
1993-95
|
Pathfinder
|
28oz
|
|
1994
|
300ZX
|
23oz
|
| 1993-94 |
Quest: |
|
|
|
Front
AC Only
|
36oz
|
|
|
Front
and Rear AC
|
56oz
|
|
1991-94
|
Maxima
|
33oz
|
| 1991-94 |
Sentra
|
25oz
|
|
1991-93
|
NX
|
25oz
|
| 1991-93 |
240SX
|
32oz
|
|
1991-93
|
300ZX,
Stanza
|
28oz
|
|
1980-92
|
Pathfinder
|
32oz
|
|
1990
|
300ZX
|
|
|
|
With
Turbo
|
30oz
|
|
|
Non
Turbo
|
32oz
|
|
1983-89
|
Pulsar
|
32oz
|
|
1989-90
|
240SX
|
36oz
|
|
1982-90
|
Sentra,
Stanza
|
32oz
|
|
1980-90
|
Maxima
|
36oz
|
|
1984-89
|
300ZX
|
36oz
|
|
1980-88
|
200SX
|
32oz
|
|
1980-88
|
280ZX
|
36oz
|
|
1980-82
|
210,
310
|
32oz
|
|
1981-82
|
510
|
36oz
|
|
|
Source:
Aircondition.com
|
|
|