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Title: Brake Job (removal, installation, bleeding) Time: 4-6 hours Difficulty: 3/10 Vehicle: Author: Tools:
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Instructions
Brake pad installation 1, Jack up truck and secure it properly from rolling
2, Take off wheel
3, Open the 2 bolts holding the caliper on the back side
4, Take off caliper, don't stress brake line too much !
5, Take out old pads and push back cylinder (must go in quite easy)Use a "C" clamp to push the caliper piston in all the way. Remember as your pads are wearing the piston extends farther out from the caliper.
6, Clean the caliper with a wire brush, take care of the rubber sealingAlso make sure to look at the rubber boot around the piston if there are tears in it you should replace them. A tear in the boot can lead to loss of brake fluid if debris gets to the piston seal. Also check to see if you have any groves worn into your rotor or any warpage. Use a straight edge across the rotor to see if it is even all the way across. If it's warped or groved you need to have the rotor resurfaced "turned". See rotor removal HowTo
If you elect not to have the rotor resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surfce with medium-grit sandpaper using a swirling motion.
7, Grease the back side of the new pads (prevents them from jerking)
8, Fit them in and bolt caliper on
9, Make sure all bolts are tight !!
10, Pump up the pressure in the system by pumping the pedal until it feels hard.10a, Bleed the system. Helps to clean out the piston bore of crap that has built up in them over time.
11, Mount wheel and lower the truck again, use a torque wrench for the wheels
12, Drive the first 150 mls carefully and avoid panic stops on the new pads as they have to brake in
Writen By: Karsten
Rotor removal Brake bleeding procedure Two way to bleed brakes
1) "Proper" brake bleeding procedure
Start with the caliper/W.C. furthest away from the master cylinder (usually right/passenger rear for north american trucks). (some people say if you didnt do anything in the rear you dont need to bleed there. I dont like to screw around when
i comes to brakes, or anything for that matter so do it RIGHT! DO ALL 4 wheels!)- Idealy have 2+ people, one to pump the pedal, one to fill the reservior, one to work underneath. But two can do it if he fills when not pumping.
1. attach hose to bleader screw and put other end of hose in small bucket or plastic cup. The hose should be a couple feet long at least and fit tightly over the bleeder screw nipple. With at least 1" deep brake fluid already in it.
2. Loosen bleeder screw, have pumper pump brakes as you hold the lose end of the hose under the surface of the brake fluid in the bucket. Do not press the brake pedal all the way to the floor. This will work the master cylinder way beyond it's intended range and will eventually blow out the seals in it.
3. When no more air bubbles come out tighten bleeder screw while pumper holds pedal to the floor.
4. Move to next furthest wheel and start again.(left rear)
....then right front and then left front.
MAKE SURE not to let the fluid level drop to low in the reservior or you will need to start all over again. Do not mixdifferent types of brake fluid.
Writen By: Chad M
2) Vacuum Pump
For this you will need to get vacuum pump. It costs anywhere from $30 to $100. This is the best and easiest way to do a brake bleeding. With a pump it becomes a one man job, and it takes only 15 minutes. Takes the hassle out of bleeding hydraulic systems. It will work on brakes, clutch and master cylinder. Napa has these for about $80 and Harbor Freight for $30.
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