Project
Title: Yakima Roof Rack Permanent
Time: ??? Difficulty: ???
Vehicle: Pathfinder Author: ryboy98
Instructions
Yakima Roof Rack Permanent Install
This section is a "how to" on installing a Yakima roof rack system using the "1A raingutter" style towers and the "Bolt Top Loader" anchors.  This install is a much more sturdy and reliable install compared to the "rail rider" style install.  "Why?" you ask,  because the rail rider mounts only mount to the factory rail which are not sturdy at all.  With that application you can only load up to the factory load capacity on the rack.  The factory rails are only held on by thin pop rivits and can be pulled out if there is an excessive load on top by the force of wind at high speeds.  

As you will see during the installation of my Top Bolt loader system it takes a little longer to install, but is well worth the extra load strength.  I also have the Q Towers which fit in the door jambs and is just as sturdy, but with that application the bars are over the front of the vehicle and I didn't think that a safari rack would look nice up there.  Plus I would have to sacrafice the use of my removable sunroof glass.  

So, sit back read and see if this is something you are willing to do.  It only takes about an hour and a half to do the install with the proper tools.  If you decide to do this type of installation, I believe you will be very happy.

*Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility of any damage caused to any vehicle if these instructions are followed.  I have done this type of installation on several vehicles including 2 of my own and do believe this is the safest way to add a roof rack. *
Yakima Parts List:

* Bolt top loader mounts (2 Pair)
* 48" Yakima Round bars (1 Pair)
* Any other yakima accessories (IE. bike trays, ski or safari rack)


Tools that you will need include:

* Phillips head screwdriver (recomend an electric drill, shank and Phillips bit)
* Metric Socket set (can't remember exactly which sizes)
* Electric drill
* Uni-bit drill bit is best to use
* Measuring tape
* Sharpie marker or permanent marker
* Metric wrench set
* A panel puller is also handy.
* A plastic bin or bowl will come in handy to place all screws and misc. parts that you remove from the truck so they don't get lost.
Step one:  Removal of the Headliner

* Remove the "grab handles" from the two sides of the vehicle.  The rubber caps at the ends will pry up from the outer edges and slide towards the middle exposing the screws needed to remove them. (see pic)

* Remove the "grab handles" on the piller behinde the seat belt pully.  The rubber inserts cover the screws that need to be removed.

* Remove the bolts which hold the Seat belt pullies; front and rear. (see pic)

* Pull the pillar panels off with a panel puller. If a panel puller is not available pull gently but firmly at the top edge till the panel comes loose. Behind the panels there will be two plastic push holder holding the sides of the middle vinyl crossection, remove these plastic holders.
  
* Remove the Plastic cover of the dome light.  You will see two silver screws that must be removed to take out the light.  Be careful once you remove the screws because there are two plastic spacers on the top side of the light which will be free once the screws are removed.  Unplug the light and repeat for the rear dome light.

* Remove the panel which the front dome light was mounted to, this will pop off with a panel puller,  again, if one is not available then just pull gently at the edges until the panel comes free.

* Remove the left and right vinyl panels from the ceiling with a panel puller.

* In the rear there is a plastic panel that runs along the edge of the rubber seal.  Remove the two screws that hold this on and remove panel.

* Pull loose the top edge of all the panels holding the headliner. Then remove the plastic push rivits holding the head liner up to the roof. Once this is done the headliner should be free.

* CAREFULLY remove the headliner out of the vehicle towards the back of the truck. You might want to have a friend hold down the top edges of the side panels to prevent from scratching the headliner.  I have done this several times so I was able to do it by myself.  But, I recomend you have someone to help you with this.
Step 2:  Drilling holes and anchoring the mounting plates

* Decided where you would like to position the mounting plates.  I personally measured 5 inchs from the back edge of the roof to the edge of the mount for the rear plates. (see pic)

* Once you have decided and measured where you want to position the plates, use the sharpie marker to mark the holes in the plate where the bolts will pass through. (see pic)  Make sure there is nothing on the bottom side of the roof that will be damaged if you drill in those marked spots.

* Use the electric drill and unibit to drill the marked spots, make sure the hole is large enough to fit the bolt.  I can't remember off the top of my head if I drilled to 11/32 or 9/16, your Yakima instructions will give you the size hole you need to drill.

* Do the same procedure for the front mounting plates. You can measure a distance  from the rear mounts to the front, make them equal in length (driver and passenger sides).  Check to make sure there is nothing to be damaged below, mark the holes and drill.

* Once the holes are drilled clean off and sharp edges and shavings very carefully with a rag.  Be careful not to cut yourself on the metal shavings.

* Place the foam padding, supplied with the mounting plates, between the plate and the top of the roof.  Apply the silicone, supplied with the kit, around the holes you drilled and around the under side of the bolt head.  Drop the bolts throught the holes.  

* Place a bead of silicone on the large flat washers, supplied with the kit. (see pic) Slide them on the bolts then the lock nuts after them. Tighten the nuts onto the bolts to where they are snug and compress the foam padding between the mount and the roof. (see pic)  Repeat for all four mounts and eight holes.

Step 3: Installing the 1A Raingutter towers.

* Loosen the bolts on the towers that allow the bars to pass through. Yakima provides a tool with the towers to do this.  

* Run the round bars through the towers on both sides of the bar with the bolts you loosened earlier still loose.  

* Mount the towers to the mounting plates you installed and secure them lightly by turning the knobs.  Once the distances between the towers are set correctly to the mounts, tighten the bolts that hold the load bars down.  Make sure there is equal distance on both sides of the bar overhanging the towers.

* Repeat this step for the other bar and towers.  You should have the rack installed completely now.  

* Tug on the bars back and forth, side to side to make sure everything is tight and sturdy.  If any bolts are loose tighten them now.

* Step 4: Reinstalling the interior

* Once the racks are secured re assemble the interior in the opposite steps you took them appart. Important that you make sure the seat belt pullies are bolted back in securely!

* Once the truck interior is re-assembled you are done and ready to rock and roll.  You can add whatever you like to the racks now.  Personally I put my bike carriers, wind fairing and spare tire up there for now. But I am planning on adding a safari rack and lights up there in the near future. I will add that part on to this "how-to" once they come in.
Left: Picture of the headliner ready for removal.

Right: Me tightening one of the eight lock-nuts.
Left: Picture of the ceiling without the headliner and before the holes were driled.

Right: me testing the strength of the 1A Towers pulling on them.
Left: Permanent Yakima rack installed.

Right: had to go check them out on the trails. Doesn't make a lick of difference. Just needed to go trail riding. :)
Left: Checking articulation. I know...but i can dream right?

Right: Diggin' Diggin'
Above:  My truck as it sits right now. I NEED A SAFARI RACK AND LIGHTS!!!

This great How-To came from ryboy98 webpage.

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